autumn knitting

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Autumn dayMaking the most of a wet and windy autumn day to catch up on a long overdue clean up at home.

…and squeezing in a little knitting…

I’ve been [im]patiently waiting to cast on the tortoise and hare gauntlets by Kate Davies for a little while. Now that I’ve finished some gift knitting and a couple of new circular needles have arrived in the post, I’ve rewarded myself by casting on.

tortoise and hare guantlets

My first fair isle project. Also my first attempt at magic loop knitting. After only a few rounds, I’m already a BIG fan of this over using double pointed needles. Not only is it a lot less cumbersome to handle, but now I can’t lose any more needles on the train (yes, I did drop one down the impossibly tiny gap between the seat and the wall a couple of weeks ago, never to be seen again, grrrrr!).

I’m also using Jamieson and Smith 2 ply jumper weight yarn for the first time and I must say that after several projects using soft merino or silk/cashmere blends [which are, of course, lovely to work with], the real ‘woolliness’ of this Shetland yarn is a treat.

Jamieson and Smith yarn

I also made a start during our recent trip away on the big herringbone cowl by Purl Soho, in Malabrigo Yarn Twist.

Big Herringbone Cowl WIP

I love this stitch pattern – simple and classic – even if it is a little tedious to knit.

It’s been several months since I finished this, but I’ve also managed to get a photo of it at last; my Estella hat, by Ysolda. Knitted in Toft Alpaca DK.

Estella hat

A lovely crisp day down at our beach a couple of weeks ago and if you look closely you can even see the boy is wearing his Brentwood beanie, which I knitted for him a couple of years ago.

Port Willunga

 

[listening to Cerrone - Hooked on You (Kon re-edit)]

April

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I have been very quiet in this space recently, mainly because life has just taken over. A snapshot of the highlights of the last two months…

I worked here

finished this

made these for Mum’s birthday

and am three quarters of the way through this

There hasn’t been a lot of time for sewing, but the long commute to work has got me back to my knitting, which is a good thing now that autumn is upon us.

[listening to Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu - Wiyathul] 

Polka dot blouse and high waisted skirt

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A simple kimono sleeve top and high waisted skirt, self-drafted.

The blouse is made from a mystery fabric I picked up at an op shop a while ago. I’m a sucker for polka dots.

I had intended to make a peter pan collar for this (as can be seen from my previous sketch), and in fact I did – painstakingly drafting the pattern pieces, ironing on the interfacing and sewing several times to get the shape right. Then I tried it on. I couldn’t quell the overwhelming fear that I looked like a small dog in a circus wearing a ruffle. All I needed was the party hat to match. The boy told me that I was being too harsh, and that I didn’t look like a dog wearing a ruffle at all, more like a clown. Thanks. So the collar was promptly cut off, and I ended up finishing the neckline with some self-made bias binding (thanks to these Coletterie tutorials) with a little keyhole opening at the back.

I made the skirt from some red cotton drill I picked up a few months ago at DK Fabrics. And before you say anything, I know it’s not in my colour scheme, which would suggest I’ve failed at sticking to that promise pretty quickly. However, I had the fabric before I decided on the colours, and I thought this could be a wearable muslin, so it doesn’t really count. I’m intending to make something similar in grey soon which IS in my colour scheme :-) . Oh, and it has pockets. I’m doing pretty well at sticking to that promise!

It’s just as well I’d intended it to be a muslin, I say, because it didn’t all go to plan. I was 98% finished and just preparing to sew the buttonhole when I commented to the boy how pleased I was with the neat finishing job I’d done. Then I attempted the buttonhole.

Now, I’ve never used the auto buttonhole on my (mum’s) sewing machine before but I figured it couldn’t be too hard, and being a generally sensible person I tested it out on a couple of layers of scraps of the same fabric first. Perfect result. Excellent. I tossed the sample aside, grabbed my skirt and away I went. Only it didn’t go so smoothly. I’d only made a narrow waistband, so there was some seam allowance in the bit where the buttonhole needed to go and my machine wasn’t too impressed by all that thickness. It got stuck. I cursed it. It got stuck again. I cursed it again. I tried to figure out how I could over-ride the ‘automatic’ part of the function but couldn’t. In the end, I muddled through, making a very imperfect buttonhole but glad to be done with it nonetheless. I grabbed my seam ripper because I couldn’t find my small scissors and set to opening the middle of the buttonhole. A little tired and cranky by this point of the evening, I was a little overzealous and managed to open not just the buttonhole, but the whole waistband. Granted, I should probably have considered the fact that leaving about 3mm between top of buttonhole and waistband edge wasn’t the soundest idea in the first place, but hey, I’m new at this, and I don’t always think things through so well. Now my carefully sewn skirt had a nicely torn waistband. Great.

At a loss as to how to fix it, I reverted to a simple technique, which I’m pretty sure you won’t find in any sewing books. I grabbed a patch of fabric, overstitched the edges and stitched it straight over the torn bit of waistband. Professional, huh?

It worked, though. I made another buttonhole on the opposite end of the waistband, this time sewn horizontally and opened up with scissors (every now and then I do learn from my mistakes!), sewed the button on and voila! I don’t even think the patch is a problem, because it’s a side zip and button, so it’s usually hiding somewhere under my elbow.

By the way, both patterns were drafted with the help of a recent purchase, Cal Patch’s Design It Yourself Clothes, Patternmaking Simplified. So far I’ve found it to be very well explained and simple to follow and would very much recommend it to any newbies like me who want to try making their own patterns.

[listening to Duke Ellington and John Coltrane - In a Sentimental Mood]

2012 sewing plans…the patterns

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In my last post I showed the colour palette I’m using for my future sewing plans and here are some of my ideas for patterns

I’m not the world’s greatest drawer but you get the idea. Apart from maybe with the cardigan which doesn’t really look like what I have in my head. I’m thinking of a simple cardi with an open type of stitch pattern. I haven’t found a pattern I like yet though, so I may have to make it up. Eek.

I’m also thinking of a light blue version of this dress, from my newly purchased Burdastyle Sewing Handbook.

I’d seen a picture of the dress and it was the main reason I bought the book. Once the book arrived though, I discovered there isn’t actually a pattern for it, as it’s a variation of the included dress pattern (by the talented NattyJane from All Dressed up and Nowhere to Go). Hmmm. Oh well, I’ll have to try and figure out something similar because it’s such a cute dress.

I also have plans for a Jasmine by Colette Patterns (I told you I’d be sewing more Colette Patterns!)

I’m quite excited about the idea of getting these items into my wardrobe. Now I just have to hope my sewing skills are up to it!

[watching: Rafa v Djokovic in the Aussie Open Final. Vamos Rafa!]

2012 sewing plans

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In 2011, I learnt to sew. Now, whilst I’m still very much a beginner, I’m really hoping that in 2012 I can start to sew things that begin to form a cohesive wardrobe. I have added motivation as I’m determined not to buy any clothes this year (unless I really can’t avoid it) and my current wardrobe hasn’t seen many new additions for a couple of years now.

It’s very tempting to look at gorgeous fabrics and patterns and buy what jumps out at me. The problem is I’d end up with a lot of things that don’t necessarily go together and quite probably aren’t really my style.

So, I’m going to try and be disciplined. That means only buying fabrics from the colour range that I’ve decided on*, and thinking very carefully about the style of garment I choose to sew – that means fewer 50s style dresses (which aren’t really my style) and more separates and basics.

A few months ago, over at the Colette Patterns blog, the Coletterie, they hosted a fall palette challenge. The aim of it was to choose a colour palette for autumn, decide how many garments to sew, and sew them in 8 weeks. Well, now, 8 weeks for me might get me a skirt and half a dress (plus it’s summer now in my hemisphere), but it’s a great idea so I’ve decided to adopt it and extend it out to 12 months and include my knitting projects too.

Here’s my colour palette

Colour PaletteNext up I’ll share some of the ideas for items I’m planning to sew and knit.

* I’ve decided this will exclude any fabric I pick up at op shops, because it’s good value, better for the environment than buying new and I can use it later!

[listening to DJ Shadow - Scale it Back]

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I love a good crepe

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Well, really, who doesn’t? A bit of lemon and sugar on a golden crepe is a wonderful thing. Or my favourite – Lyle’s golden syrup and ice cream. If you haven’t tried it, you should. Mmmmm.

Anyway, this isn’t a food blog, so why am I talking about French pancakes? Because my latest finished item is Crepe, by Colette Patterns.

Crepe front

This was actually sewn up in December, in a bit of frenzy as I wanted to have it ready to wear to the boy’s work Christmas party. I sewed like a crazy woman all week, got it finished and then I got sick, couldn’t go to the Christmas party, and the dress has been languishing in the wardrobe ever since. I finally decided to pull it out over the weekend to get some photos.

I wouldn’t usually go for a wrap dress, as they tend not to suit me with the neckline almost always being too low. This dress, however, wraps at the back;

Crepe back

a very clever way to design a dress that’s good for beginners but allows for a more interesting look at the front, in this case with the sweetheart neckline.

Crepe sweetheart

The pockets are fantastic too and I’ve already used these on another couple of dresses. Oh, how I love a pocket. The pattern was well written and easy to follow and I have plans to get hold of a few more Colette patterns soon.

[listening to Frank Minion - So What]

the precursor dress

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I’m starting 2012 by going backwards. Only a little way, hopefully, and then I’ll start moving in the right direction. The last couple of months of 2011 was quiet on the blog front, but not because I wasn’t sewing. I have a couple of dresses to show for it, the first one being the precursor to my sort of self drafted New Year’s Dress:

Precursor dress

Why the stupid expression on my face? I don't know

This was another quilt cover picked up at the Salvos and which has now found a home in my wardrobe.

The fabric was pretty light and thin and I thought it would be a bit see through, so I decided to underline it. I’ve never lined or underlined anything before, so I went searching in internet land to find some simple instructions. Gertie and Sherry‘s blogs came to the rescue and showed me what I should be doing. I will admit that I was relieved when Sherry suggested machine-basting rather than hand-basting the two pieces together so I went with that option and hoped for the best. The quilt cover had a different pattern on each side, so by underlining, I got the same look with the dress.

Reversible quilt cover

With hindsight, the fabric is probably a bit heavy now, but hey. I also somehow managed to have the waistline too high, even though I lowered it after sewing a muslin. Is it really so hard to figure out where my waist is?? I’m not sure it should have been, but apparently it was.

I also completely screwed up the facings on this. As I wasn’t following a pattern for the bodice, I made the facings up myself based on hazy memories from the dress of doom. They must have been hazier than I thought, as I got it very wrong by not factoring in that this one was sleeveless. I ended up with separate neckline and armhole facings that were far too narrow and just wanted to pop out to the outside at every opportunity.

Bad facings

What a mess

I was rushing to finish it off by this point so instead of ripping them out, cutting the right shaped ones (the front neckline and front armhole facings should have been connected as one piece and same goes for the back) and then sewing it back together, I just hastily machine stitched the facings down at several points. The facings still want to pop out, but only in a few spots where I can tuck them back in again. And hopefully no-one will look too closely and see where I’ve messily stitched it (although, err, you don’t need to look too closely to find one here)

Lazy stitching

And I used to think I was a perfectionist. Ha!

I did at least learn from my mistake, as my New Year’s Dress looks a whole lot better. And I finally worked out where my waistline is. Huzzah!

Improved facings

It was a hot day and we have an old Hills Hoist in the backyard. Don’t tell me you wouldn’t want to swing around it too…

Precursor dress

[listening to Flying Lotus - Do The Astral Plane]

starting as I mean to go on

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Last night I welcomed in 2012 with a picnic on the beach, surrounded by a great bunch of people and wearing an outfit I’d made myself.

NYE 2011

2011 has been a fantastic year and one of much change. I’ve moved back to Australia, travelling through 12 countries on the way, learnt to sew, progressed from knitting scarves and hats to actual garments, got a new job and started volunteering in the Bush for Life programme.

I think 2012 will be quite different, a more settled year, of getting to know my old friends again properly, saying goodbye to my 20s and hopefully continuing to learn more about my surroundings – native plants and animals – and how to live more sustainably within them. My plan for 2012 is to sew more, knit more and try as much as possible to wear my own creations over shop bought items. This works for me in two ways: 1. I hate shopping (unless it’s fabric, yarn or op shopping) and 2. There’s nothing I like more than being tucked away with my needles and yarn, or sewing machine and a bit of fabric. A big reason for doing this is also that I am trying to reduce consumerism in all aspects of my life, and by learning to sew, I can take an unwanted old bed sheet or quilt cover from an op shop and turn it into, for example, this:

Little birds dress

Little birds dress back

My new year’s dress.

I drafted the bodice myself and teamed it with a modified version of the Colette Patterns Crepe skirt. The Crepe is a wrap dress so has 2 skirt backs which overlap. I ditched one of the skirt backs, added an invisible zip at the centre back and made the skirt front from one fabric piece rather than two to keep some continuity in the pattern. I kept the pockets though, because oh how I love pockets – so useful!

I’m really happy with it, it fits me well (I spent a lot of time working on trying to draft a bodice block from my own measurements due to increasing frustration with trying to alter commercial patterns; more of that in a later post), is light and summery, practical (I want to add pockets to everything I make now), cost effective (probably cost about $6 including zip and thread) and was made from an unwanted quilt cover. Plus it’s about my fastest make yet as I’d already made a version of it a week ago which I tweaked (I’ll post about that one soon as I have a bit of blogging to catch up on).

It was also perfect for our evening at the beach seeing in the new year. With Adelaide having its first mini heatwave of the summer, the dress was perfectly cool all day and evening. And if this 40 degree weather keeps up, it’ll certainly be getting a lot more wear.

Happy 2012, all!

Goodbye 2011

[listening to The Lovebirds (feat. Stee Downes) - Want You In My Soul]

knitting mojo

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I’m pleased to report that my knitting mojo is back. It’s not as though I’d really gone off knitting, I’d just lost a bit of what some may call an unhealthy obsession with it. Happily, the unhealthy obsession is back, and I find myself spending far too long drooling over patterns on Ravelry, window shopping in online yarn shops and creating a list as long as my arm of things I’d like to make (but probably will never have time to).

I have just cast on my Laar, a lightweight cardigan by Gudrun Johnston, aka The Shetland Trader. Now I know I must be slightly unhinged because this is a cardigan knit in lace weight (2 ply) yarn on 3.5mm needles. This could take a while…

The yarn is Fyberspates Scrumptious Lace in colourway 507 (teal). The photo doesn’t quite show the true colour, there being a hint of green in it, but you get the idea.

Not satisfied with a project that may well take me until next spring to finish, I’ve rustled together some more gems for my queue:

  • Tinder by Brooklyn Tweed – such a cosy, wintery cardie and I looove the burnt orange/red colour.
  • Paper Crane by Kirsten Johnstone – perhaps I should wait a while after Laar before knitting another lace weight cardie. I’ve never used linen before but I’m thinking I should embrace it given I’m back in warmer climes these days
  • Paper Dolls by Kate Davies – so cute (although not sure if my colour work skills are up to the task)
  • Audrey in Unst by Gudrun Johnston – I’m thinking a natural sheepy colour for this one

The list goes on but I’ll keep it somewhat realistic with things I may have a chance of finishing in the next couple of years or so.

[listening to Raphael Saadiq - The Answer]

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